Help, oil in coolant reservoir !!

[eng55marine]

I was driving home from work and noticed the oil in the reservoir , about two inches. I noticed the leaking oil on the ground when i got home, opened the hood and found it leaking out of where the engine coolant goes. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
Sorry, I have 2001 7.3L SD, with 110,000 mile on it.

[BC06PSD]

Just my two cents, I'm no engine expert.

My guess would be your oil cooler is busted.

If coolant is in your oil then the other diagnosis is more grim.

[Abrannan19]

your fucked.

[Redfish]

Awesome diagnosis adam

[!!!PainTrain!!!]

I had oil in the coolant as well...my Oil Cooler was busted.

[eng55marine]

Thanks fella's, especially Adam for the vote of confidence. Any way is there a way I can test to see if that is the problem and is there any information on how to change the oil cooler, and an average price or where to get one from. Thanks angain, Art

[BC06PSD]

Copy and paste from the org because I'm lazy. I'm not the original author but it looks about right.

My oil cooler sprung a leak also. To remove it, I followed this procedure:
1. drain oil, 2. Drain antifreeze, 3. disconnect telescopic portion of steering column (one bolt at top, in the universal knuckle and one bolt w/ 10mm wrench head at split collar which attaches to steering box splined input.) 4.Adjust the power steering pump so to slacken the belt. 5. Remove the P.S. Pump and its bracket as a unified unit. 6. use a small needle nose vise grip or a hose clamp plier to pinch off the power steering hose which is attached to the nipple on the power steering pump reservoir's bottom rear side and the pull that hose off the reservoir. (my reservoir is plastic and the hose slips on and is secured with a pinch type hose clamp) 7. I was able to set the pump aside and rest it atop the air filter housing. Beware of fluid leaking from the reservoir. You may need to cap it. I used a flexible vinyl cap of the sort that is used to protect the end of a tube, cap a vacuum line or cover the rough end of a cut end of a typical closet shelf wire end. 8. Remove the radiator hose from left (driver's) side of Rad. Take the hose out of the truck. 9. If you want more space, you can remove the weather neck, by which the rad hose was connected to the block. I did not remove that part but managed to work with it in place. 10. remove the bolts from the cooler and wrangle it out of place. Watch out for oil and coolant which will spill from the cooler. I got the cooler to exit downward and had a helper support it while I manipulated it. It actually came out quite easily.
Cooler remediation: Mine was rusty, crusty and greasy. I degreased, scraped and wire wheeled it. I then used a screw driver and then an "O" ring pick to clean the circumference where the steel tube met each aluminum header. I then soaked the mating positions with Aerokroil from Kano Labs. Any good penetrating oil ought to help. I carefully knocked off one header with an oak block against the edge of the header mouth, setting the oak against the aluminum and hitting the block with a steel hammer. I applied blows alternatively to one side of the mouth and then the other so I did not **** the assembly. The second side did not want to budge, so I juiced it up again with Aerokroil and held it vertically, the casting down, above a pile of shop rags (to protect against it being damaged when it flew off and hit the bench or the floor). I then repeatedly struck all around the edge of the casting mouth directly with a steel hammer (about 12 ounces). I hit it pretty hard but stayed mindful to not break the casting edge. After about three minuted of persuasive beating, the casting broke loose but did not separate. One of the seals ("O" ring) was brittle and held the tube in the casting. I was able to break up and remove the brittle "o" ring in pieces and then the assembly came apart. I cleaned up all parts, removing oxidation from mating surfaces, and carefully scraped off the old gaskets. Got new seals and gaskets from Ford dealer (about $70.00). I had some pin holes which I brazed closed and I slathered more braze over some of the thinner sections of the pipe which had been compromised by rust pitting and flaking. Before you braze, I recommend rinsing the finned core of the cooler tube thoroughly with solvents and then blowing it dry with compressed air, to evaporate the solvents, unless you like fire and smoke. I chipped off most of the hardened braze flux and thoroughly degreased the tube exterior with old fashioned Brake Clean. Then I painted the exposed part of the tube with Rustoleum Rust Reformer spray paint. I will apply a coat of spray enamel and then reassemble everything, with plenty of Vaseline on the "O" rings. I've read that the headers ought to be pressed onto the tube. I suspect that is best to do for good control of the assembling procedure. I do not think the press is needed for its force capability but is desirable to use for ability to control the process. Be sure to align the cooler tube entry and exit ports with the corresponding ports in the header castings.
I suppose larger holes in the tube can be restored with some bits of heavier sheet metal and careful brazing. It is a bit of a rig job, but then, do you plan on driving this rig til your dying day?
Remember to clean your bolts and use anti-sieze compound.
I also pulled apart the telescopic steering column section, cleaned and greased it.
That e-bay oil cooler looked pretty good and I would have tried to snag it if I had known earlier.
I expected a tougher job than it turned out to be. Good luck!

[iracemx6]

Thanks fella's, especially Adam for the vote of confidence. Any way is there a way I can test to see if that is the problem and is there any information on how to change the oil cooler, and an average price or where to get one from. Thanks angain, Art

You can always count on Adam!!! LMAO

He's the OFFICIAL truth seeker and teller....plus he know's:donlovescock:

Welcome to the pond!

[SINNER]

Adam also knows that only posers run a fuckin chevy Luv as a drag truck.....

[Abrannan19]

Lmfao

[iracemx6]

Adam also knows that only posers run a fuckin chevy Luv as a drag truck.....

Guess only broke ass mofo's can afford to race a Luvtruck.

You are right......I should just sit around:nutswinger: looking at diesel mags all the time so I can be like ya'll:jerkoff::hehe:

[eng55marine]

I've been getting a price of 286.40 plus tax for the oil cooler. That's for the part. Any one know of anywhere cheaper.

[Lord Tauk]

Powerstrokeshop.com has the oil cooler listed for $206.21

[720Deere]

Guess only broke ass mofo's can afford to race a Luvtruck.

You are right......I should just sit around:nutswinger: looking at diesel mags all the time so I can be like ya'll:jerkoff::hehe:

Why sit around and look at magazines? All you are going to see is Adam's truck month after month after month!

[eng55marine]

Today is the first day that I have been able to get to the truck, because I've been sick the past week. It took awhile to get it off the truck because I had my 5 and 3 year old kids helping me. It was more like babysitting than working on the truck. I did everything from underneath the truck with my two helpers and it came apart in no time. I then sprayed WD40 on the ends and let them sit for 10 minutes and they popped right off. I actually put the cooler on a vice and the ends spun right off. I was able to get a new oil cooler, O rings, gaskets, and oil filter for $300.00. There was no sign of water in the oil, only oil in the antifreeze. My next question is when I'm able to get everything back on the truck( It's to dark and I doing it in the drive way) can I flush the truck with just water a few times before putting antifreeze back in it, and do I need to take out the thermostat to do this.Thanks again for all the advise.

[PSDPlayer]

Remove thermostat and use the Simple Green degreaser stuff. Do not use other brands as they are harmful to some metals. The simple green is safe to use in the engine.

[eng55marine]

I put the oil cooler in on Friday and it ran well, but I did not run it very long. My family and I left for a trip to Virgina Friday night and got back late last night. We took my wife's car. This morning I started the truck, no problems. I then put the truck in gear and it doesn't move. I check the fluid and It's low, or should I say nothing on the dip stick. I put three quarts of transmission fluid in and it drives but still hesitation in the trans. I go to work and and check everything before I leave and found oil in the antifreeze over fill again. At this point I'm ready to drive the F$%*ing truck into a wall. I do not want to take it too a mechanic because obviously the last F%$#ing one did not put transmission fluid in it when they replaced the F*&%ing trans cooler. I wish I lived closer to Doug, at least I know it would be fixed right. Any ideas on what direction to go now.

[Lord Tauk]

Injector cups?

If the cooler is good to go, it's prob. something else to think about?

[SINNER]

Did the truck have tranny fluid when you parked it? Are you sure it's oil in the antifreeze? Could be your trans cooler in the radiator be leaking.

[eng55marine]

I called Doug and he said it might be the trans line leaking in the radiator. I'll check that tomorrow

[PSDPlayer]

Well after Art mentioned that he was 4 quarts low on the trans fluid. It was kinda extra info to know. I could have sworn you put a new trans in that thing a while ago when the intermediate sprag went out on it. So I would have thought the fluid would have been more red than black.

[eng55marine]

Doug, do you think that would be normal for the trans fluid to be that black. When I change the fluid in the transmission about 4 years ago I do not remember it being that dark.

[PSDPlayer]

Doug, do you think that would be normal for the trans fluid to be that black. When I change the fluid in the transmission about 4 years ago I do not remember it being that dark.

Only if the trans is seriously overheating. What is the heaviest thing you tow?

[eng55marine]

I towed a small skid steer 2years ago and my wave runner once last year, that's it. I'm in the city and alot of stop and go traffic.

[eng55marine]

P.S. Any one want to buy a used oil cooler cheap ! LOL

[eng55marine]

I'm draining the antifreeze(water) and trans fluid. Trans fluid is a chocolate type color. My guess is that there is water in the trans. What can I do to properly flush it out and how much damage do you think it might cause.

[PSDPlayer]

Flush it through with the cooler lines disconnected and see if it can be salvaged. If not do like we discussed on the phone.

[eng55marine]

Question, what type of tranny fluid should I put in the truck. The dealership said Mercon 5, and I've been told to use Mercon ATF. I have bought Penzoil ATF to flush it out. Will that be OK

[eng55marine]

I finished the radiator replacement to day, drained all the fluid from the trans, dropped the pan and replaced the filter. I tried to get as much fluid out of the lines as possible. I replaced the fluid with super tech and pennsoil ATF and I'll run it for a couple days before I drain it and put in Mercon ATF. I was told to use Mercon ATF not Mercon 5, does it matter what Mercon I use. The truck is running good, no more trans fluid in the antifreeze. I did put in some simple green and I'll flush it in the morning. Thanks for all the advice.

[PSDPlayer]

The regular mercon is what I would recommend. The mercon V has a slip additive in it for the newer clutch materials. Ford says run the new Mercon V in it, but I would rather not.

[eng55marine]

Any one know were I can get the regular Mercon tranny fluid. The dealership want $5.06 a quart for the Mercon V and thats all they carry.

[PSDPlayer]

Just go get you some Coastal hydraulic fluid from Napa.